Trousers: Igarashi Bespoke
For a guy obsessed with trousers it might be puzzling that it has taken me so long to venture into bespoke trousers.
As far as my obsession goes, fit and style is of course high on that list, but furthermore I think it’s the most important garment in the wardrobe as tailored trousers is the one garment I wear all year round.
Looking for an alternative to supplement the style I have from Ring Jacket, I thought I had found a maker last year, but due to unknown circumstances that did not pan out.
Now, finally, it seems I’ve found the right fit(…) and it happens the solution to my problems was already waiting for me here in Japan.
Igarashi Trousers
Being made aware of Igarashi Bespoke was yet again one of those “if I’d just bothered doing my research” situations where I knew about Igarashi Trousers as I had seen them being sold in a few different stores. It just didn’t occur to me that, aside from the RTW trousers seen in select shops, they might have both MTM and bespoke services. Which they do.
Founded by Igarashi Toru, an artisan with years of experience under his belt, Igarashi Trousers not only embodies the meticulous attention to detail and quality one expects from Japanese craftsmanship. But also, the founders deeper knowledge of anatomy from their experience as a sports trainer.
In fact, off the bat, before having made any measures, while standing on the other side of the atelier, he pointed out the slight difference in hip position and how we could adjust for that. Mind you, this is not an obvious difference usually noticeable to others.
Igarashi holds trunk shows around Japan at approximately 2 month intervals, which means anyone outside Yamanashi or Tokyo can conveniently make appointments and follow their trunk show schedule, thus sport Igarashi trousers without having set foot in either of their stores.
In my case It aligned with a trip to Tokyo so I got to experience both the trunk show and their Tokyo Atelier.
Order Process
The normal schedule includes the initial measuring upon ordering, as well as deciding on style, details and other preferences. There is a lot of leeway here and a lot of the detail decisions I left for the second fitting.
The next step is the second fitting with the temporary sewing done where one can get quite a good idea of how the trousers will turn out. As a trouser aficionado even at this stage the drape and clean lines could’ve moved me to tears.
Lastly, there is a last fitting session.
This one I skipped as I needed or well, wanted them ready for a certain date. They also were quite happy with the results on the second fitting, more than enough so that they were satisfied the results would be great.
Now, there were a couple of parts left to tweek, but I take full responsibility for this as the schedule change was all on me. That said, the trousers look great, amazing in fact and secondly, the parts I want to fix are mostly slight tapering which is not crucial in terms of wearing them.
Trouser Style
As far as style goes, I don’t think there are any big surprises here. My reason for wanting to try Igarashi was to find a maker that could provide the gurkha-like style similar to my Universal Language trousers. So that’s what I based my orders on.
I had two trousers made, both in similar style but with certain detail differences. One reason was the purpose of either trousers, the second was that I wanted to see which details I prefer the most for future orders.
The base style is a high-waisted trouser with two pleats and a fairly tall waistband.
Slanted side pockets, one back pocket and my signature 6cm turn-ups.
Additionally, both trousers has side adjusters and the same cut and fit.
Now to the differences.
Because the green pair was for my double breasted suit I opted for a slightly more refined look with no coin pocket and straight side adjusters. Although I wear my DB jackets open as well, considering that trouser details will be hidden quite often, I reckoned this was the better choice of the two pairs to try the more refined, stripped down preferences on.
For the brown pair I wanted to try their signature pistol shape side adjusters. The shape is more distinct and visible, but still definitely elegant, not to mention interesting as similar adjuster shapes are rarely seen.
As alluded to, with this pair I went with a coin pocket. I generally prefer this both visually and practically, but I thought having one with and one without would serve as a great base to see how these differences changes the overall appearance of the trouser also considering how it looks in a full suit.
Rise and Drape
Pivotal to get right, a trousers value to me, as in, whether I will continue to wear it or not is determined by all of the details listed up until now but most importantly the rise.
Where we landed with these was about 29cm technically speaking. How high they sit essentially depends on whether they’re worn with braces or not, but the most important part for me was that they should be no lower than 29cm when worn without.
The combination of rise and full cut is astonishingly well executed and what we all want: enough room to not be restricted, a full enough cut for them to drape nicely and keep a sharp line while maintaining a flattering silhouette. I think I can safely say this is the closest to perfection I’ve ever got with this regards.
Detail Summary
Igarashi Trousers
Bespoke
5,5cm waistband
Straight side-adjusters
Double pleats: outwards
29cm Rise
6cm Cuffs
Fabric: Fox Brothers Classic Flannels
Igarashi Trousers
Bespoke
5,5cm waistband
Pistol shape side-adjusters
Double pleats: outwards
Coin pocket
29cm Rise
6cm Cuffs
Fabric: VBC Woollen Flannel
Conclusion
It’s been a long wait, trial and error, deals that didn’t pan out and frustration, but finally I can firmly say I’ve found the right place.
It’s not so much about the style of trousers, although that has been the main driver behind my search, because with a bespoke maker, or rather the right bespoke maker, obviously you are more or less free to design what you want. Furthermore, the essence of the gurkha style I have been looking for is available and as mentioned in this article, was available for next to nothing.
But, it was pivotal that also the quality, a sense of heritage and pride from the maker, was there.
Secondly, If I’m going to pair trousers with a jacket made by Ring Jacket to assemble a suit I want to know that both items bring with them a similar sense of refinement and that is what I have found here.
With Igarashi all the boxes are checked and even more so. From start to finish it’s been a professional a passionate process where the results speaks for themselves.
I can’t recommend them enough and I will hope to continue this newfound relationship from now on.
