tee Time

Seeing as we’re gradually entering spring and thus, summer is also just around the corner, I figured I would do a little bit on t-shirts. Drawing so much hate from certain purists it seems like somewhat of a controversial topic, but white t-shirts are staples in my wardrobe. Not as a style statement, although I honestly think they wear well on me. But as a Scandinavian with centuries of genetic moulding to the rather cold and harsh climate of the north, my body does not take kindly to the Japanese summer. This basically renders me unable to wear anything but white tops  from the end of May until the end of September. 

But when it comes to buying t-shirts in Japan I think any foreigner will agree when I ask; what is up with shoulder width in Japan? 

Many a time I’ve tried to find t-shirts, polo shirts or dress shirts, well, tops in general, just to have the shoulder seam end up half way up my neck. Not literally, of course. But despite the fit otherwise being perfect, the shoulder seam always seem to have been made for someone without shoulders. I’ll admit that I am very picky when it comes to fit and even when it comes to tops I’ve bought in Europe, I tend to do slight alterations to them. But at least there are countless options if you just want a regular shirt without the hassle. 

By the way, as I continue I’ll refer to everything within the realm of tops as shirts.

In Japan said alterations has to be taken to a whole new level. I basically would have to buy two sizes up and reconstruct the whole shirt to get close to something of a normal fit. 

And if I try to compromise in either direction I can hear the staff (whom seemingly momentarily forgot that I understand Japanese) having a laugh. I’ll give it to them that they are always aware of where the shoulder seam sits, so at least they’ve got that part right. But they just don’t seem to understand why I would want to comprise to alleviate the additional bulk around the waist, which could fit a whale.

I used to think my annoyance with (especially) shoulder width in Japan was some minor detail only I would get worked up about. But it has come to my attention that several prominent figures on youtube also have been ranting about the same issue. Although this doesn’t fix the initial problem, I’m happy just knowing I’m not alone.

The most apparent solution is as obvious as it is visible on the streets in any Japanese city. 

Going oversized!

Japan is known for their oversized and boxed fit shirts after all, and the majority of stores here have an array of options available. To be fair, I understand their obsession with the fit because it looks great on their body type. On me however, unfortunately not so much. 

So we’re back to square one. 

It seems I’m the one barking up the wrong tree here. 

The regular fit shirts are catered to a narrower shoulder width to accommodate the Japanese body, although, honestly, I don’t find Japanese guys to be particularly “narrow shouldered” at all. In fact the contrary.  

On the other hand the oversized fit is ideal, enjoyed and loved by Japanese people, yet neither this being my cup of tea. 

Just to be clear, I am not at all expecting anything to be catered to me, I’m just laying out the problem we foreigners are dealing with here. 

Is there any solution then? Besides being a full time home-tailor? I mean, with the amount of shirts I clear through during the ridiculously hot and humid summers in Japan, there’s no way I have the time and energy to adjust every single item I buy. 

But, yes, there is a solution: Drop shoulder! 

Granted, this is somewhat of an experiment where the outcome isn’t always 100% satisfactory. But it’s not far from it.

Cotton/Silk mix Short Sleeves Knits; Beauty & Youth and United Arrows.

I find that if you go to somewhere like United Arrows, especially their Beauty & Youth select shop, or Beams, the quality of the shirts is quite good, they have a good selection of designs, they always have nice knit-like t-shirts in fabrics suitable for summer and most importantly all in drop shoulder models. 

The clue here is to size down. 

The shoulder seam will end up just where it’s supposed to be and even if it sits a little lower that’s not a big issue to me at all. In fact, I actually prefer the latter. 

I know this is a proper -fit faux pas-, I’ve heard “slouchy look” being one proposed outcome. But I disagree. On the contrary, I think a little drop in the shoulder seam line on an otherwise well fitting shirt creates the appearance of broader shoulders without looking ridiculous. 

The shirts above are four examples of how this approach looks in my case. As one can see, there is some variation in how “well” it works, although I am pretty much ok with all four of them. The knitted shirts are the ones that lends themselves best, as the fabric is a little softer and stretchier. With the cotton shirts it tends to depend a lot on the ratio of the shoulder width/drop and how wide the fit of the torso is. For instance in the case of the cotton shirt with a pocket, I am considering taking it in a little bit around the waist.

With the shirts I’ve bought integrating this theory, the fit of the shirts end up being tapered but not skinny.
Also, the fact that I usually wear my shirts tucked in gives a lot more leeway with regards to length, seeing as they don’t necessarily need to be as long. As such the options and variety available also increases considerably. 

Just a side note on this: I’m aware some of the pictured ones sit quite thight around the shoulder and chest. To some that might not seem ideal. The two bottom shirts are from this year, and closer to what I wear these days and as such a better representation of what I’m trying to convey in this article.

This might be something that works for me because the standard size from these shops just happens to fit well when sizing down, but I highly recommend trying this approach.