TLB Mallorca pt. 2
A lot of things has happened since I first got my hands on a pair of Artista shoes from TLB Mallorca.
That is, for the brand, not me, not related to how I feel aboout the shoes. If anything my affinity for TLB has only grown.
While TLB Mallorca has expanded their range, both in terms of leather and models, I’ve stood firmly on my initial assessment that this is a shoemaker without comparison for the price range.
Last year after a long stint of loafer acquisitions I (finally) made a return to Oxfords and to me this was an almost “full circle” kind of event.
TLB Mallorca
As mentioned TLB Mallorca made some big leaps the year prior, both upgrading their line to include several interesting new laced shoe models and new loafer models, and also a shell cordovan MTO option. Although I haven’t had the chance to try the cordovan shoes yet, what this venture marks is a big step ahead for the brand, as if they weren’t already leading the race. For many, cordovan is the pinnacle of leathers and TLB Mallorca is now inviting yet another group of shoe aficionados to their potential clientele.
Now, let’s take a step back. After all, this article isn’t about cordovan. At the end of last year TLB rolled out a selection of new shoe models and among them, to me, a familiar sight so to speak.
Specs
・237 Artista Adelaide
Vegano Leather
Goya last
Goodyear Welted
8 SPI
Calf lining
Vegetable tanned leather insoles
Leather heel stiffeners.
JR Leather Sole
The 237 Adelaides are quite similar to the well known 107 Adelaide that has been in their collection since the start, but for two details: the brogueing-line beneath the laces has a rounded shape as opposed to the straight and angled of the 107, and on the 237 it continues all the way back along the edge around the heel.
As minuscule a difference this seems to be, it makes a big difference visually both in that specific area of the shoe, both also for how the shoe shape is perceived.
Both the 107 and 237 Artista models are beautiful shoes, but the reason this new entry meant a lot to me takes us back to the beginning of what would be long and steady relationship with shoes from TLB Mallorca.
When I first tried their customisation option, making a shoe akin to that of the new 237 model was one of the first I acquired about. Although they were more than happy to make it for me, I somehow never ended up pulling the trigger. Mind you this is 3-4 years ago now, so the why could have an endless possibility of answers.
One thing that is for sure is, seeing my vision realised by TLB as a new model in their line-up instantly had me return to the idea of acquiring these.
Just so I’m clear here, I’m not implying this model was inspired by my inquiry nor that I’m taking any credit what so ever.
Recap
Since it’s been a while since my first article about TLB Mallorca and their Artista line, bringing up a couple of the key details of craftsmanship that makes them great for new readers is in order.
They are Goodyear Welted, 8 SPI and closed channel finish on both their standard soles as well as the JR soles (custom option). Calf lining, vegetable tanned leather insoles and are made in an array of leathers.
The last part worth mentioning is the leather heel stiffener. Now, it has come to my attention that some don’t see this as a feature quite deserving of the attention it gets and for me personally I would have to disagree. Granted, more so than the heel stiffeneres, the shape of the heel on TLB Artista shoes is important as to why I enjoy their heel as a whole. This became very apparent when I first go into loafers as they were the first loafers that didn’t slip.
As a part of this (the shape) in addition to the fact that TLB’s shoes are the only ones I’ve never gotten blisters from I would have to at least believe that the particular heel stiffeners TLB uses, the softness and how they shape, is significant. For reference here, the loafers I had from other brands at the time were either too stiff or conversely too soft. I’ll leave this as an anecdote while saying that what’s true and not doesn’t really matter to me as long as the shoes fit and wear perfectly; that’s all the evidence I need.
Style
Given the nature of the Adelaide leaning more formal, these also fit well into that side of the scale. The omission of the cap-toe makes for a more refined appearance and the floating medallion is an elegant feature. That said, personally I more often opt for my semi-brogues if choosing between the two when not wearing a suit. Essentially what this model brings to my personal line-up is a shoe for wearing with suits that adds just a touch of flair while not being overstated.
I have not been paid, compensated or otherwise compelled to write this article.
