Trousers pt. 1: model

Following the updated version of my article on belt alternatives, I want to expand a little further on the subject of trousers.

The feedback has also been quite motivating to be honest, so I want to thank the people whom reached out following the article. 

While on the topic of feedback, the majority of comments I get with regards to my style concerns trousers and it is overwhelmingly positive; quite a lot of people are interested in where to get similar trousers and specific details. 

So, as a part of a new series I’m writing three articles on trousers. In this first article I’ll present the trouser models and what these models entail in terms of details. In the following articles I will go more specific into rise and then lastly fit and alterations.

Trouser Style

There are mainly two styles, or models rather, you’ll see me wear. The main features they both share is that they are high-waisted, two-pleated and both have side adjusters. 

There is one more style of trousers coming in soon which I’ll write about when the time comes. The main difference with the coming addition is that they are one-pleated, but besides that they are also high-waisted and share more or less the same details.

Universal Language

The first is an off the rack model, a gurkha style trouser, which in my case I acquired from Universal Language in Japan. 

After buying my first pair I fell in love with the style and stocked up on every conceivable fabric and colour available. 

For European readers, Pini Parma offers trousers quite similar, albeit with one pleat and a sligthly lower rise. 

First of all, the waistband is quite tall at 5,5cm. This makes for a very elegant waistline, further emphasised by the elongated button fastener. 

The button fastener (the flap) is double-buttoned and extends about 10cm from the midpoint of the waist. On the off the rack model there is also a coin pocket with a buttoned flap just beneath the waistband. As mentioned, they also have two outward pleats and side adjusters.

I will go into my personal preferences with regards to alterations in the last article. This is essentially what creates the prefered fit and silhouette. I’ll add two notes on that now though. My preferences has evolved and although I’m still opting for quite a fitted look, it’s slightly more relaxed than what you see above. Secondly, all the Universal Language trousers are about 1-2cm shorter than what I prefer now. This of course emphasized by the fact that I am wearing loafers (which has a lower tongue) in the picture.

Although most of my custom suits from Universal Language had to be sold because my shoulders outgrew the jackets (the ones above are not custom and will be presented in the future with an explanation of why they still fit), I’ll add that these trousers are the same model I chose for those custom suits with one major caveat: they did not have the longer buttoned fastener (it was not an option)

From top to bottom: Ring Jacket, Universal Language, Universal Language custom. Here you get an idea of the difference in fastener length.

With a model such as this that becomes a major issue as, instead of a smooth and elegant waistline you end up with a short tap that completely distorts it because of the combination of tall waisband and short flap.

Ring Jacket

All my trousers from Ring Jacket are based on the same model. For off the rack trousers and suits, that means the S-178 model. 

The custom order trousers and suits are based on that model with added length to the rise and a couple of minor features depending on the purpose. Some of these are; removing the back buttons and removing the loop over the waistband fastener.

As an off the rack model the trousers come at a 24cm rise, while my custom orders have a more generous rise around 27cm. As mentioned in earlier articles, my main reason for wanting to go custom was that added length. 

Below, the left are custom, while the right are off the rack.

The hight of the waistband of these trousers is 4cm, which is what you typically see. 

The fastener has one button and a flap that reaches 13cm from the midpoint of the waistband. 

Compared to the gurkha style of the Universal Language trousers these look a lot more like what you traditionally see in suits but as pointed out before, I think the long flap on the waistband makes for a lot more of an elegant waist.

Like the Universal Language trousers, the model also has side adjusters and two outward pleats. 

As for my preferences in terms of fit I will address this further in one of the next articles.  

Conclusion 

This was first and foremost written as a reply to all the people whom have asked about the trouser models I wear.

If you came here with a bias and you’re still not convinced that’s perfectly fine. It all comes down to personal preferences. 

The details mentioned in this article can hopefully help you in your search either for off the rack or if you’re ordering mtm or bespoke. 

A couple of last advices:

Definitely try to get a longer flap on the waistband, as a shorter one will basically result in the same unwanted effect as belts on low rise trousers does. You want your waist to look as stream lined and elegant as possible. 

Above you can see different examples of fastener lengths, one versus two buttons and side adjuster placements.

In the case of side adjusters, I have no preference. Ring Jacket (left) places them a little lower, while Universal Language (the three other from the right) has them placed on the waistband. One could of course argue that the latter is more streamlined, but honestly, when worn I like the look of the lower placement just as much. What I would however suggest is paying attention to the button fasteners.

The two to the left have longer flaps which in my opinion is preferable. If left with the options similar to the two right examples I would actually pick the furthest to the right as conversely, if it’s already short you should opt for as short as possible.

I would go for turn-ups if the trousers are pleated, especially if there’s two pleats. 

Lastly, it’s not a given that every trousers will look good on any person. Some cuts and brands might just not be the right for you. But in terms of trouser style I’m confident that you will be able to find any style in a cut fitting your body if you do the research. This last part has to do with hip position, seat size and so on. Needless to say knowing your own body is essential.

In next article you can read my thoughts and preferences with regards to trouser rise.

Hope this helps. Thank you for reading.