a Loafer for your thoughts
Introduced by G.H. Bass in the 1930’s, the Weejuns was the shoe shape that eventually became what is now referred to as the Penny Loafer. As if the Norwegian welt construction wasn’t already enough to spark some pride in this Scandinavian, the Weejuns name, seemingly being drawn from “Norwegians”, referring to Norwegian boat shoes doesn’t take anything away from the pride in terms contributions to menswear history. (It’s very Scandinavian to believe that the world revolves around us). All jokes aside, let’s continue.
The Penny Loafer has been a classic ever since the Weejuns first release, becoming a staple in not only the Ivy style wardrobe but for the shoe lover in general.
That being said, seeing as the only common trait for penny loafers, besides somewhat similar upper shape, is the leather strap on the upper, the actual look of a Penny Loafer can vary quite a lot.
As a child I was sporting boat shoes all year round, but then again I also had blue and white striped shirt and a captains hat in the summer so I think my parents had a theme in mind when picking out the outfit. Mind you, this was between the age of 3-6 years old, if anything, it lead to some amazing photos from my childhood.
Regardless of that experience, later on, talking about loafers in general I used to really dislike them for a variety of reasons. I wasn’t so keen on how they felt when being worn and them always seeming too casual. Lastly, somewhat paradoxically, loafers always seemed to either look too feminine or grandpa-like.
I’ve also become aware that there are many sartorialists and shoe aficionados out there whom seemingly agree with these sentiments. I’ve even heard Hugo Jacomet mentioning not being particularly fond of loafers. Even if this is the case, and as with anything people’s opinion will vary, I found that to me it’s also about sartorial maturation and not to mention; finding the right look.
In the end, Penny Loafers, or rather, the right Penny Loafesrs are the only loafers that I felt provided the right amount from each side of the scale; being casual when dressed down and formal when dressed up.
So, in my case there are mainly two aspects to finding the right penny loafer, the first obviously being the fit. If finding well-fitting laced shoes, like oxfords and derbys, until now have proved to be a difficult task, loafers are easily best described as the end boss of the fit game. They all seem to slip while walking and no amount of insoles, tongue pads or heel grips have managed to efficiently weigh up for lack of good fit in the long run. And to be honest, although all three of those options can be a savior to some, we all want shoes that fit perfectly right out of the box.
The second, again obvious, being the last and shape of the upper in which I am extremely picky. As mentioned before, the shape of the penny loafer comes in a broad variety and this to me is the make or break factor.
I like the last to have a slightly rounded toe shape, an upper where the toe is curved, as opposed to the boat shoe-like shape of some loafers. The latter seems to be the most popular shape in Japan, so as if my criterias weren’t already an obstacle, finding shoes in stores in japan has proved to be a difficult task.
Last but not least, crucial for a good fit; a longer tongue. Beyond being a personal preference, there is also a reference to Japan here, as most school uniforms include loafers with the aforementioned boxier shape with a shorter tongue and you really do not want to be caught wearing anything associated with those shoes if you’re an adult.
The picture below gives an idea of the difference in length from two different brands.
As for brands that makes Penny Loafers that would most adequately resemble the shape I am describing, I would say Carmina and Crockett & Jones comes (or came, as you will see) the closest. The Sydney Penny Loafer from Crockett & Jones is a near perfect example and I wouldn’t shy away from recommending them if you know your sizing for Crockett & Jones, but…
As it happens, I have finally found what I perceive to be the perfect Penny Loafer and it might not come as a surprise that they are the Penny Loafers from TLB Mallorca’s Artista line.
As you can see from the picture, the Artista model and the Sydney model are quite similar, but the small differences I mentioned. To me they are both good choices, but in my opinion the shape of the Artista is just a little more elegant and refined, as well as the the longer tongue and higher stitch detail, all in all has TLB Artista crossing the finish line first.
If you want to read my review on the TLB Mallorca Artist loafer you can have a look here.
