Holland & Sherry Riviera

Ring Jacket MTO

As seldom as it is you see navy cloths presented from me, even more seldom considering the make of this cloth.

I did put a lot of thought into this, mind you, and I’ll try to make sense of it in this presentation.

That said, make no mistake, any cloth made by Holland & Sherry is one I will stand by.

 
 

Cloth Properties

Holland & Sherry

  →  1121024 dark navy herringbone

  • 60% Super 120’s Worsted Wool, 40% Polyester

  • 280g

  • Twill

When I first had a look at the Riviera bunch book I caught myself thinking sometimes it doesn’t have to be all about luxurious fabrics. Not really the thoughts you expect while browsing through Holland & Sherry swatches. 

But I think my feelings towards polyester got seriously damaged after my clash with the past- the memory of my lackluster approach to suiting in the long forgotten past when most of my wardrobe was polyester suits.

When you see merchants and mills like Holland & Sherry, Loro Piana, Ferla and so on using polyester it should be obvious you can rest assured the synthetic is there for a reason. 

Riviera seemingly isn’t a very prolific cloth, but with the sheer number of amazing bunch books in Holland & Sherrys catalogue, you wouldn’t really expect this one to be one either perhaps.

Now, this sounds like a rather gloomy approach to a cloth I have chosen and it really isn’t.

The benefit of this make is that it provides a really durable cloth perfect for those times you need to pack your suit in a suitcase.

The fiber percentage at first glance looks to be a little too polyester dominant at 40%, but the feel of the cloth doesn’t really give that impression. What this does provide you with is a cloth that will hold its shape and drapes well, that is strong and easy to maintain and care for.

The weight, 280g, also puts this firmly in what to me is a spring or fall suit and to some extent winter. It’s extremely comfortable to wear, although not very breathable like the high-twists I prefer, it still feels light.

Cloth Look

My intention for this suit was making an all around navy suit, sort of a staple piece, not particular to any season. A suit that could be dressed up, or worn casually, travelled in, worn to dinner or if be it a wedding. Never overly formal nor casual.

In such a case I think this cloth is an excellent choice. The herringbone pattern is quite narrow creating the exact look I was after: sort of a shadow stripe, without it looking satin-like, which reveals a herringbone pattern on closer inspection. 

Furthermore, when looking at such cloths, if you’re wise about your colour choice, like the dark navy here, it doesn’t really come off as looking synthetic as such.

I will admit that navy is probably the only colour in which I would choose this cloth for, or any cloth with a percentage of synthetic fibers for that matter.

If you’re not fuzzy about natural and synthetic fibre mix cloths, I can recommend Riviera, especially for people like me living in a country like Japan where you really have to choose fabrics for the season. In such a case this is the perfect cloth to fill that spot between suits with more season specific cloths. 

The Suit

As I mentioned, what drove me towards making this suit was a general lack of navy suits and 3 season suits for that matter. Well, 2 seasons in my case.

As you might have noticed, suits that are specifically summer suits or winter suits, with fabrics also suggesting so; high-twists, flannels etc. are my preferred choice.

With this one I went in the same direction as the William Halstead suit, going for jetted pockets while keeping the double stitching details.

It’s a slight contrast between formal and casual but I might be one of the few whom thinks double stitching can look somewhat formal but in a more stylish way (however, not by the standard rules of course).

It’s also a nice continuation of “my look”, adding a red line throughout the suit line-up. The last reason where this could be justified is that I am planning to order a super simple no detail navy suit later on. 

Jacket and trouser details are also the same as the William Halstead suit, but with two changes in the trouser department. Don’t worry, the high rise and pleats, as well as cuffs, are still there. 

However, I removed the back pocket buttons, which I generally have done lately. Although it also does give a slightly more formal look, as explained in an earlier presentation, this is purely a practical change. The buttons tends to come in the way when putting my phone there, which is done very seldom but still enough for me to realise these buttons needed to go. 

Secondly, I removed the loop over the button fastener like I did with my second pair of Crispaire trousers. The idea being that it will make the waistline look just slightly more streamlined and formal. 


Specs.

Holland & Sherry

  →  1121024 dark navy herringbone

  • 60% Super 120’s Worsted Wool, 40% Polyester

  • 280g

  • Twill

  • Jacket No-269

    • Half Lined

    • 3-Roll-2

    • Double Stitching

    • Jetted Pockets

    • 9,4cm Lapels

    • Working Buttons

  • Trouser S-178

    • Two Pleats / Out Pleats

    • Side Adjusters

    • Rise 27cm

    • 6 cm Turn-ups