Scavini Tailleur Trousers
I learned about this ready to wear option through Sartorial Talks quite a while back. Scavini offering RTW trousers was just something I had to try, so it was a no-brainer ordering a couple of pairs.
Initially, I intended this to be just a presentation seeing as the addition of these trousers to my wardrobe turns out to be the first one-pleat trousers I have owned.
But, additionally I’ll add a short review of the experience with Scavini Tailleur as a shop since I had some interaction with them throughout the ordering process
Style
I might have exaggerated how much these differs to the trouser models I usually wear, especially in comparison to my Ring Jacket trousers.
The most obvious visual difference is that they have one pleat as opposed to two. Adding to this, I could’ve ordered my Ring Jacket trousers with one pleat, so not owning any one pleated trousers is on me.
There is however another detail that differs quite a lot. That is the rise of the Scavini trousers.
The rise is quite a bit taller than either of the other two models you’ll generally see me wear.
The over all look is classic and lends itself to both dressing them up as well as down.
For people like me whom tend to lean towards Neapolitan style, or Italian in general, these are the perfect model.
Rise
With regards to rise, I’m now left in an awkward position because you all know that I am quite the proponent of high rise, as the previous article about trousers makes abundantly clear. I used to push the idea that “the higher the rise, the better”, within reasonable limits of course.
But as of recently I have been promoting a slightly more modest rise. Not low to any extent, I am talking 27-28cm which is still extreme to some.
But wearing these Scavini trousers made me realise, yet again, that in fact I prefer an even higher rise if I can obtain it.
And I have to be very honest, the rise of the Scavini trousers is to dream for. That’s not to take anything away from my other trousers which of course look great with the length they have.
The best part is that the trousers from Scavini are cut in a way that doesn’t make them look disproportionally high-waisted, even though they rise above both Universal Language and Ring Jacket by quite a few centimeters.
For me that puts them right above the navel, to give you an idea of how high they sit.
Waistband
The waistband on these is more or less the same style as Ring Jackets S-178 model.
It’s 4cm tall and has a 15cm button fastener with a loop to keep the flap in place (the waistband loop is the only time you’ll see me advocate for a loop being a good thing).
I really like the slightly longer button fastener as it makes for an even more streamlined and elegant waistline.
Side Adjusters
As for the side-adjusters, they’re placed right on the waistband and are quite sturdy, as in they don’t slip.
The colour on the buckle is gun metal, which is neither good or bad in my opinion. As in, It’s a good neutral. Just adding that on the corduroy trousers there are silver buckles.
Most of the metal I wear, or jewelry I should say, is silver so if ever my garments had golden coloured metal bits my OCD would really take a hit.
Gun metal is the perfect solution because it doesn’t really miss-match with anything and otherwise blends in quite well.
Lastly, before moving on to pleats, I’ll mention that there is also a coin pocket beneath the waistband.
Seeing that it has no flap, that’s also a different style element compared to my Universal Language trousers.
To me it doesn’t really add or take away from what I feel about the trousers, it’s just there and it might come in handy. From a technical point of view, they are well made.
Pleats
The pleats are placed perfectly in the middle and the pleats have quite a normal depth.
Seeing as the cloths of all of these trousers doesn’t necessarily make for crisp pleats I won’t go into much detail on that, but all in all the pleats look great and have a nice drape down towards the knees.
As I mentioned, this is the first time I’m wearing one-pleated trousers and I actually don’t wish to make a conclusion on how I feel about them at the moment because it’s obvious to me that I am not yet used to the look.
Which means, that as of now, I find the placement seeming too narrow on the front, but I can’t stress enough that the reason for that is the omission of the second pleat.
The pleats are placed exactly where they are supposed to and upon seeing pictures of me wearing them they look amazing.
Edit: Having worn the four trousers quite a few times I am now assured they look great.
Now accustomed to the one pleat look I really feel that they bring some variety to my trouser selection.
Fabric
Vitale Barberis Canonico
Wool & Silk
90% Wool, 10% Silk
370g
Colours: Green, Navy
Vitale Barberis Canonico
Original Woollen Flannel
100% Wool
360g
Colour: Gray
Brisbane Moss
Corduroy
100% Cotton
440g
Colour: Beige
It might be counter intuitive not going deeper into the cloths, but my main focus here was the style of the trousers.
The flannel trousers both have cloths from Vitale Barberis Canonico; which are the Wool & Silk, and Original Woollen Flannel quality. VBC is well known, so I won’t go much into detail there either, other than that I have been very satisfied with their flannel qualities before, in fact it’s one of the few types of qualities where I actually prefer VBC because of the cost/performance.
The Wool & Silk cloth has textured look with the silk showing as small dots within the weave. It’s quite an interesting look which further adds to the variety these trousers adds.
The corduroy trousers are made with a cloth from Brisbane Moss with medium sized wales. As for wale width; I don’t necessarily have a preference, but I would love to have a pair with wider wales as well. In any case, I really like the look of these and they are a much needed beige trouser addition to my wardrobe.
Below from the left: Brisbane Moss corduroy, VBC Wool & Silk
Tailoring & Fit
With regards to the quality of tailoring, the standard I tend to compare with is that of Ring Jacket. Given the difference in price I’m not sure that such a comparison would be fair. Not that the trousers from Scavini aren’t excellent. They really are! And for off the rack trousers, they hold up to scrutiny. The stitching is well done and I could'n’t find any missteps suggesting work done hastily or corners cut. The shirt fabric lining around the waistband is also a nice touch. So that’s a 10/10.
In terms of fit I’ll have to be honest and say the cut isn’t perfectly suitable for my body. I recon too much time in the squat rack has left me with a seat a little too big for this cut. My regular size (40) fit perfectly around the waist and otherwise, but was very tight around the seat area. I then opted for a size bigger than my normal size and that gave me a little more room to work with. After sizing up and altering the fit they now fit great, although I might have them tapered even more around the thighs.
Keep in mind that this part has nothing to do with Scavini’s trousers in terms of quality, but a note on fit for me personally. When tapered from one size bigger, they fit quite well and I am now pretty much satisfied with this addition to my trouser line-up. I can’t give this part a ranking as it comes down to how your body is built, but leave you with the note that if your rare end is on the bigger side, you should do as me and go one size up and taper down.
Scavini Tailleur
Although Scavini Tailleur might not be bespoke with a big B and rather more of a made-to-measure workshop, bespoke sartorias offering either MTM or ready to wear options is a trend I welcome with open arms.
For those whom don’t have the time, opportunity to travel, (patience) or the budget this is a formidable option.
Now to the reason I also wanted to make this last part a review of Scavini Tailleur.
Before ordering I had a few inquires about the trousers and I must say I was pleasantly surprised by how helpful they were. Everything was thoroughly explained no matter how moronic some of my questions might have been. Good service might not be so surprising, but the sincere effort made to help me was at a level I haven’t experienced before.
Adding to this, when deciding to go for a size up after receiving and trying them on, yet again the response to my inquires was welcoming and helpful. Honestly, these guys are excellent and service-minded people.
Even though discussing different aspects of size over e-mail is quite difficult, they really made an effort to suggest options, pros and cons with each size and so on.
They deserve all the praise one can give!
I can honestly say I have never experienced better service before.