Holland & Sherry
Classic Mohairs
Ring Jacket MTO
Although I intend for these presentations to be a bout cloth more so than suits, seeing as this was my first custom order from Ring Jacket I will lay down most of the base specs to refer to in the future.
Although people usually tend to play it safe on these occasions, I had all intentions on following my own plan.
I’ve always thought green is a highly underrated colour for tailored wear and it’s a colour that matches my skin tone nicely (according to others I might add). As Such the decision for this first suit landed on an olive green fabric.
Cloth Properties
Holland & Sherry
→ Classic Mohairs 2821021
85％ Super 100’s / 15％ Mohair
230g
Plain Weave
My intent for the first commission was to find a nice high-twist but with amount of remarkable summer cloths out there one is bound to get lost and so I did.
Not quite though, I just decided on acquiring a green cloth first, as opposed to a brown and this was the one I liked the most.
The Fabric I chose is from the Classic Mohairs book from Holland & Sherry.
It’s a plain weave made up of 85% super 100’s and 15% mohair, weighing in at 230g.
Seeing as the weave is somewhat tight, or rather not open as, let’s say a fresco would be, I figured a lighter fabric would be optimal. That said, I have been blown away time and time again by how well this wears on hot days.
Despite the mohair making up only 15% of the cloth it seemingly has quite the affect on how this cloth wears.
If you read this presentation before, you’ll notice that I have updated it and I think that was overdue. At the time I had yet to make a proper conclusion with regards to how I feel about this cloth in terms of being a summer cloth. Now I can safely say it definitely performs excellent.
It wears light, provides quite the amount of breathability and holds shape quite well. Actually more than quite.
I have gotten so many compliments on the trousers pleats being sharp and I can reveal that I have never pressed these trousers or otherwise, which is a true testament to how well it holds shape. As for the drape, it’s not quite like a high-twist but still impressive. Like I said, no press has been done yet I still don’t feel the need to.
Cloth Look
As far as compliments go this cloth is also the one that receives the most compliments.
This is a plain weave with alternating green and dark green threads in the weft and the warp and I’m still amazed by how beautiful it looks.
What is most interesting about the look of this cloth is how it changes depending on the lighting. Inside it tends to give off that mohair sheen while outside it looks more matte.
One reason for me being on the fence about this cloth before is that I generally haven’t been a big fan of the vibrant look of mohair and it takes some getting used to. But with this cloth, as I mentioned it comes off as matte outside, I feel like I really struck gold.
Suit
I based my commission on the jacket model No-269 and trouser model S-178, which are my favourites from Ring Jackets RTW selection.
The 269 model is the same as the Subalpino and Army Serge suit jackets, and I modeled the details for this jacket on those.
As such, it’s a 3roll2, with 9,5cm lapels which is standard for the No-269 model jacket.
I chose patch pockets, which might not come as a suprise.
The only change, or add-on rather, I did was adding a hip pocket to the inside of the jacket.
This is not a standard feature on this model but honestly a pocket I use a lot on models that has it. So that was a must.
The jacket is half-lined with a grayish blue cupro. Even though there isn’t much lining to begin with, I like there to be some contrast between the fabric and the lining.
For the trousers, basing it on the S-178 model leaves only one alteration to be made, which is the rise.
Adding about 3cm to this part makes for moderately high rise and one of the most important parts of commissioning a suit in my opinion.
The trousers has two outwards facing pleats and more significantly I really like how deep they are.
This in addition to side adjusters and an elongated waistband pretty much sums up what my preferences for suit trousers are.
Specs
Holland & Sherry
→ Classic Mohairs 2821021
85％ Super 100’s / 15％ Mohair
230g
Plain Weave
Jacket No-269
Half Lined
3-Roll-2
Double Stitching
Patch Pockets
9,4cm Lapels
Working Buttons
Trouser S-178
Two Pleats / Out Pleats
Side Adjusters
Rise 27cm
６cm Turn-ups
Conclusion
I really like the ready-made suits from Ring Jacket that are comprised of these jacket and trouser models, but I always wished the trouser have just a slightly higher rise.
It never was a dealbreaker for whether or not I bought ready-made suit if I found one in a fabric I like, but it has been a dealbreaker for me wanting to order a customised suit from Ring Jacket and now I’m quite sure this is the right way to go.
As for the details and silhouette of a suit, this is the first time I can confidently say I am 100% satisfied!