Pinstripe Suit revived
First presentation of the year and it’s only fitting that we start the year on a paradigmatic shift in my wardrobe and a slight change to the presentation format, although honestly that might be an exaggeration with regards to both.
To me, writing these have been an integral part of the journey and most of all the renewal of my wardrobe. For my own sake it helps me be more aware of why I wanted this addition to the collection and what I feel that it adds. Furthermore, much of my exploration has been into to cloths and this is something I want to put more emphasis on. As I have come to realise, the cloth makes or breaks the garment in this climate and I really enjoy researching, experiencing and as a result share my thoughts about different fabrics I encounter on my journey.
As for this presentation, I have finally gone full circle and yet again have a navy pinstripe suit that fits.
Cloth Properties
Vitale Barberis Canonico
→ Woollen Flannel
100% Worsted Wool
340g
The quality I chose for this suit is the same as the brown flannel I will present next week; a woolen flannel at 340g from Vitale Barberis Canonico. Although not from the same bunch.
I had a look at quite a few different qualities from Fox Brothers, Zegna and Lanificio Corrado but in the end the decision to go with VBC came down to three factors: price, stripe width and the feel of the cloth.
With regards to price, VBC is a fairly budget friendly alternative. My initial thought was that I wasn’t quite sure if revisiting pinstripes would rejuvenate my interest and given that I seldom wear flannels compared to other cloths it seemed like a good idea. I also have quite a bit of experience with VBC flannels and this particular quality so I knew they hold up well.
What I didn’t expect was that I would actually wear this suit as much as I have, but that’s not to say I’m not happy with my choice. Which leads to the second reason; stripe width.
With my affinity for Fox Brothers I also looked at their flannels, but I found that what I wanted in terms of width was something in between their broad stripes and narrow stripes.
As for the third reason, both Zegna and Corrado just didn’t feel quite right. Of course they are both excellent cloths but not really what I was looking for.
With VBC there was just the right amount of softness and the stripe width was perfect for what I had imagined when first playing with the idea of acquiring a pinstripe suit.
The cloth is at a weight that keeps the drape nicely (to the extent that flannel does) but doesn’t feel like an overpowering winter cloth which is a death sentence to warm blooded people like me.
I also find it extremely comfortable to wear, putting my high-twists to shame. But with the inherent softness of woolen flannels you can’t really justify making that comparison. It’s apples and pears.
Maybe most importantly, the VBC cloth I chose had less prominent chalk stripes which is a nice segue into how I came about ordering a pinstripe in the first place.
Pinstripes in my style
To me solid navy suits has never really been a big draw beyond formal suits. But given the amount of brown and green prevalent in my style, I thought the second winter suit should be a navy one. Also, although those plans are being postponed to next year, I initially intended to order a green cavalry twill suit.
Seeing as I wasn’t too excited about the prospect of a solid colour fabric, it seemed a good opportunity to finally acquire a pinstripe suit. I used to own quite a few pinstripe suits. Most of them double breasted, but as with the winter suits, they fell pray to the results of my affinity for weightlifting.
What I learned from owning pinstripes before is that I seldom wear the ones in the power suit category; highly contrasting visible stripes to be more specific.
What I like about pinstripe flannels, at least this one, is that the natural appearance of woolen flannel is softer and has a softer drape and more casual appearance. Although a part of the next section, when adding patch pockets, you end up with an even more casual over all appearance than the standard navy pinstripe power suit.
Adding that, with chalk stripes like in this cloth the stripes are less prominent so you alleviate some of that edginess associated with pinstripes.
There’s nothing inherently wrong with a power suit and I might even venture into that at some point, but taking into consideration my style I can’t really see myself wearing a power suit very often and that was also the conclusion from my last run in with pinstripe suits after all.
The Suit
So, if the acquisition of a pinstripe wasn’t interesting enough this part should be.
Until now I have exclusively been basing my jackets on the No-269 model. That model should be quite familiar to you by now but you can have a read here if not.
This one on the other hand is based on the No-286 model. For reference, that is the same model as the Ferla jacket, and both the houndstooth from Loro Piana and the Glen Check from Fox Brothers.
There were two reasons for this change.
One, well, I wanted to change it up a little. I knew I liked this jacket model but had yet to wear it as a part of a suit.
I thought this suit would be a good place to experiment because I knew it would probably feel less as a loss if I was to perceive it as a mistake (now I know it wasn’t). And secondly, which ties in with the second reason; because it has a slightly more casual appearance to it.
That’s not to say it was an experiment as such. I know the jacket model after all and have come to like it, to some extent maybe even more so than the No-269. Adding that there aren’t any perceivable reality where I could see myself not being satisfied with the result of any of these suits.
The No-286 model is one that Ring Jacket use for their Ring Jacket Meister jackets, suggesting it’s a somewhat more luxurious model. I’m not sure if this is just a perception or reality but I find that there are some details suggesting the latter.
Looking at the details this notion is most prominent with the spalla camicia shoulder (which all models have) usually having more shirring, although more prominent when worn, than other models and the arm hole being cut higher.
This suggests slightly more effort and finesse on the tailoring side.
This model also fits better to my upper body as a ready to wear model in its unaltered state.
The only part I have had to be aware of is how different fabrics affects the fit slightly, but when doing a custom order this of course is not a problem as such.
The lapels on the No-286 are the same width as the No-269, but the gorge is lower and the gorge line leans slightly more downwards. Although I am more than happy with the width, perceived width and appearance of the lapels on the No-269 model, I think the No-286 looks wider. This I figure is due to the the aforementioned lower gorge, as well as the more rounded and fuller belly.
As I alluded to, I wanted to make this suit as casual as possible to counterbalance the pinstripes, which I think this jacket model achieves better than the No-269.
The trousers are based on the S-178 model. Long time readers will know by now what this entails, and seeing as most of my trousers are of this model it should be a familiar sight by now. But for first time readers, reading this article about trouser models should have you up to speed.
Also, I would read this article about rise and this about fit to get a better understanding of these trousers and my thoughts on fit.
Suit Specs
Jacket No-286
Lined
3-Roll-2
Single Stitching
Patch Pockets
9,4cm Lapels
Working Buttons
Trouser S-178
Two Pleats / Out Pleats
Side Adjusters
Rise 27cm
6 cm Turn-ups
Conclusion
Navy pinstripe. Who would have thought. Well, like I mentioned, I’m not completely unfamiliar with the concept as it’s not the first time I’m in possession of a pinstripe suit.
But with this acquisition I was a lot more aware of what I wanted and what would fit my preferences and my style, so as to not just having a suit I never wear. I must admit I’ve grown quite fond of this pinstripe suit and I’m already considering one in a summer appropriate cloth.
This goes to show there are many ways you can incorporate styles, garments or anything really, that you initially think won’t match your style. Catering details on a suit is one way that I found to do so. Not to mention how you can further that image by having a clear idea of how you want to style it.
The most interesting part of this conclusion comes down to the change of jacket model. I can easily say that it was a wise move and I have affirmed my suspicion that this model is a good alternative to the No-269 model. I like both models but being familiar with both options, I now have more means to create a certain look depending on fabric and patterns.
The second aspect that is worth mentioning is that although I perceive this model as slightly more casual, parts such as shoulder construction and armhole cut makes it feel somewhat more elevated.
We’ll see in time if this successfully converted me to the pinstripe club.
